Borobudur

I encountered so many misses and hits from my visit to the Borobudur Temple. In the first place visiting Jogjakarta was not my original idea. Bothered by my husband's itch to travel somewhere less than 3 hours flight for a long weekend while taking advantage of promotion airfare, I settled for Jogjakarta from among destinations yet to visit. Knowing that Borobudur will be the highlight I did briefly scan some travel literature and website about its history and the things to look out for, but certainly not enough. Thus I draw the first lesson that intention is the cornerstone of actions and outcome, the lack of intention resulting in lackluster performance and experience.

From the attractive pictures showing sunrise over Borobudur I knew I had to sacrifice sleep for the pick up at 3.30 am to reach the site before sunrise. We reached just before 4.30 am and was given a torch each. I was surprised there was already quite a crowd and we just followed them in the dark. Due to poor communication and lack of initiative to find out more, I didn't know we were already at the temple grounds. From the posters at the travel agent's office I was under the impression we would be viewing sunrise over the temple from afar at some hill spot. In the dark we could not see the facade of the temple. If I knew we were actually at the temple grounds I would have strained my eyes to catch its looming greatness in the dark. Only when we started ascending the steps did we realise we were watching sunrise from the top of the temple . By the time we reached the top platform which housed the central dome it was bright enough to take in the whole scene. As the horizon gradually glowed in gold and pink and the mist shrouded over Mt. Merapi and the surrounding mountains, the dark silhouette of the stupas in Borobudur breathed their quiet presence. What an amazing sight! I looked up at the central stupa and there was the moon over its steeple as if affirming the feelings of connection I have inside me. To have these scenes emerging from darkness was quite an awesome experience, quite like a gradual awakening. Sacrificing a few hours of sleep yielded immeasurable gratification.

I wished I had read more about the reliefs sculptured at each of its 9 levels or for that matter hired a guide. The reliefs tell numerous stories and are rich with symbolism. I spotted a middle aged lady guide left standing on her own while waiting for her group of white tourists busy taking pictures. I struck a conversation with her and for that I picked up one of the most important symbol about Borobudur. I did read about how the stacking of each platform symbolises the ascent from basic desire to higher consciousness and finally to enlightenment at the central stupa, but I was totally thrilled when the guide shared that while each of the 72 surrounding stupas houses a Buddha statue, the central dome stupa is empty, thus signifying emptiness as the ultimate goal. The information I gathered from her made the visit so much more meaningful, reminding me that one should never be afraid to ask.

At each platform there is an open passage way round the axis. From a bird eye view Borobudur is like a mandala. Devotees are supposed to circumambulate clockwise from the base level to the top, a spiritual journey towards higher state of consciousness. That morning however we had to quickly ascend vertically to catch the sunrise and to experience the spiritual atmosphere of the temple floating above the clouds overhanging the mountain. To me it is like getting just a momentary glimpse of what lies at the end of this spiritual journey. To really get there you need to do the gradual circumambulation and ascent, a circumambulation towards the centre of self.

On my return I am so intrigued that I began to read more about Borobudur. Only then did I know how much more meaning I would have attested to the reliefs and the whole structural architecture and its surroundings among the mountains. Perhaps I need to revisit Borobudur one more time. This time I shall make my way there in the afternoon, walk each level starting from the base platform. I shall equip myself with the meaning of the sculptured reliefs at each platform. Slowly I shall go round each level before ascending the next. Upon reaching the top I shall wait for the sunset and its beckoning.